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My very first winter coat: Signorina

After sewing this jacket for our eldest and seeing the winter coats that she made, I was inspired to sew winter coats for our two eldest girls. I started off with searching a coat pattern that fulfilled my wishes (and our girls). For our middle one I came across the Signorina by FunkelRosa, a German pattern. I knew our girl would love the double skirts on the coat.

Signorina coat from FunkelRosa

I wanted to make a nice warm winter coat, although we do not get really cold winters. Nevertheless, I did want the coat to be warm enough on the bike to school. For the outer fabric I used soft shell, which I bought at actiefstoffen. In their selection of soft shell, you can see how well it holds when becoming wet (see “waterkolom”, between 5.000 and 10.000 is what you are looking for, 10.000 means that the fabric will become wet on the inside after 10 meters of water).
For the inside of the coat I chose wellness fleece, which is hairy on one side and very nice and soft. Our girls love their cuddly inside of their coat. I lined the the whole coat except for the upper skirt (I did line it first, but the coat became so poofy that I took it off again).

I made some adjustments to the coat to incorporate all our wishes:
* replaced the buttons for a zipper
* added a collar (in addition to the hood).
* added thumbhole cuffs to the sleeves
* added inseam pockets
* added a stripe of fabric next to the zipper on the inside of the coat because I was afraid that the zipper might get stuck on the hairy wellness fleece.

For the size I measured our girl with a sweater on with the lining fabric around her to see how loose/tight I wanted the coat to fit. I choose the size that aligned with that measurement. Because there is no seam allowance added in the pattern, I could easily measure the chest size on the pattern piece. For length I sized one size up, so that it would be a bit longer, and hopefully she can still wear it next year.
Also for the sleeves I used the same method. I measured with a sweater on with the lining fabric. Since I also used the wellness fleece for the sleeves I wanted to make sure that the sleeves were not going to be too tight.

I was afraid the lining would hang down so instead of sewing the lining and main coat separately, I sewed the waist seam of the lining to the main fabric. In order to have the collar nicely finished I first sewed the outside fabric of the collar separately on to the hood and the outside fabric (I did already attach the outside fabric and lining of the collar together at the top of the collar). Secondly, I sewed the lining of the collar to the rest of the lining of the coat with the burrito method. After that I turned it with the right sides out and sewed the sleeves together.

Fabric: Soft shell from Actiefstoffen, Mia & me soft shell from stoffen-hemmers, wellness fleece from de Stoffenstraat
Pattern: Signorina by FunkelRosa
Sizing: 62 – 146
Options: 2 types of hood (round and elfin hood), 2 collars (different height), 3 types of skirts, 2 different types of sleeves and an additional tab for the back of the coat.

# Fabric this week: 0 in – 3 out (Total fabric in 2020: bought 84 new fabric – used 118 fabric – 38 scrap piece – 10 gifted fabric) – in total 84 in 166 out
# Patterns in 2020: 11 in – 19 out

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